Two receivers in same closet using rf remotes

jrolson - RE: What is differnet between directv receivers and AT&T receivers.

U-verse receivers are primitive ( i.e. designed to be used with one isolated TV) - They are all controlled by the same IR. If they see IR intended for another receiver they respond. To gain an RF capability you can use two U-verse point anywhere remotes that communucate with a dongle that generates IR. These have inadequate range and the IR generated by the dongle must be hidden from other STBs. The RF is "pairable" so that it controls only one dongle.

That is the reason the IR for each one must be well hidden from the other. They can be isolated on the RF side, but not the IR side. I have a lot of experience with this because I like to watch two or three TVs at the same time. This last week I have been working to set up a Logitech Harmony Smart Control for three TVs in the same room. I thought I hid the the third STB from the IR, but, it still responded. I covered it more.

So, you can use two remote systems to control two STBs as long as the IR for one does not reach the other. But, if you see a single system that has multiple blasters, you cannot use it for multiple STBs because you will have the same broadcast IR problem. You need a system where the blasters are individually assigned to specific devices (STBs). Of course, each blaster/STB must be hidden from the other.

BTW - the Smart Control is not a single syatem solution to your problem(even though there are two assignable blasters)  because the TVs are in different rooms. The Smart Control has three blasters & you need four.

If your current Logitech works with a blaster that can handle one TV/STB(Hidden from the other STB), the Smart Control can handle the other pair. URC also has RF remote for the second pair (the less expensive model does not support pairing, so you can only have one).

There is no way to not hide the STBs from each other because of the IR generated by blasters.

I have heard of the RF control for DirectTV & att does not have anything like it. There are  remote control apps available for portable devices (e.g tablets). The best currently available is buddy TV. ATT versions have no power button. None control TVs. Some new TVs have app control, but, it is a different app.

The best system to do what you want to do is the DirectTV.

jrolson - Thanks for posting the update. I believe you see that IR is IR. If it is out there to be seen, it will be seen & will change the one, or two or three  that sees it. So, you MUST hide, at least the second receiver.

As you point out, You cannot totally cover the receiver. You must cover the front with a piece of cardboard (like a tissue box) & tape it up. I have two STBs so covered.

When you have a dongle for a receiver, it must be under that cardboard. When I had the U-verse point anywhere remote, I bought a short USB extension cable so the dongle can lay flat. Without that the cover must extend to accommodate it.

Remotes do not pair with receivers. per se. They pair with the dongle. The dongle generates IR for any STB that can see it, By isolating it, you extend the dongel pairing  to the receiver.

If you want any more info on pairing the remote & dongel or the short USB cable I will provide. Just let me know.

Ok, thanks aviewer for the great info. I will check into the USB extender and then the cardboarf box, Right now I can't get the kitchen receiver to view any programming. It displays tips and says to press OK to Watch TV, but when pressing OK it gives me a brief display at top stating No Programs Available: rebooted twice. Other TV's are working fine. Will unplub for 10 min.

Aviewer,

You said the dongle must be under the box...not inside the box? Trying to picture that.

Something else always crops up when working on an issue. Sounds like the STB lost its connection to the RG.

I am saying use cardboard like a tisssue box. Cut it to fit the front of the STB. You can use a corner if you want, but it is probably best cut down some. Tape it to the STB so that there are no cracks around the edges for IR from the other STB to get in and not letting any IR from the dongle to get out. I am reminded of an old post about the dongle radiating enough IR to travel out of the room, down the hall & controlling an STB in another room.

The dongle must be on the STB side of the cardboard, so the IR sensor can see it. It should be plugged in to the front (for power - If it communicated to the STB via USB, we would not be having this discussion) to maximize IR transfer.

If you get a USB extender, you can plug it in the back & tape the dongle to the front, top or side. Just think of the dongle as a flashlight that radiates in all directions. You want it to shine on one area & not another.

If it works flaky, try the Home depot electrical tape between the dongle & the IR sensor.

Here is the USB extension cable - http://www.monoprice.com/Search/Index?keyword=usb+extension+cable

Thanks for the details aviewer.

Purchased a usb extender for the dongle. Plugged it in the back of the receiver, then to the dongle and taped the toggle horizontally to the front of the kitchen receiver. Covered the front of the receiver with a folded hand towel and taped it down.

Then took a tissue box, wrapped and taped it around towell and  the front (over the edges) of the receiver. The Living receiver I had covered to test the new kitchen setup. Kitchen receiver was tested and worked fine

Took the cover off of the LR receiver and turned that system on with Logitech universal remote. No problems so far. Both are working independently and simutaneously watching different channels.

So far so good! Will post with any followup.

Thanks for all your help...I learned a lot about RF/IR remotes.

jrolson - Good to hear - Thanks for posting status that is positve.

It occurs to me that I should warn you about the future with the PA remote - 

My Logitech Harmony 700 rechargeable remote works the same with every press until there is a press that it will not work at all & the battery must be recharged.

The U-verse PA remote is not like that. It does not take long for the battery power to drop enough so that it does not have enough range.

You can hold it vertically under your chin (touching) using your head as an antenna or touch it to a metal arm that is not grounded. I use a reading lamp.

You can put an antenna on the dongle or a cellular printed circuit antenna in the battery compartment of the remote to help if you generally have problems, but, these cannot overcome weakened batteries. I say weakened because it does not take long to reach that point. They are not genuinely weak.

Can I just replace the batteries on the remote and good to go?

Purchase another Logitech? The one I have now is a 900.

jrolson- I am just trying to alert you that if you use it for a week or two & it becomes unresponsive, it is most likely the batteries.

I learned that & then did not pay attention & wondered why it was not working well.

After you change the batteries a few times, you can decide if it is worth keeping. Maybe keep a log of when you change  batteries. I use recharchable batteries, so there is no expense, just effort.

I am not familiar with the Harmony 900. Check to see if it supports pairing. So, you can use two.

My new favorite is the Smart Controller. It uses different technology, so it should not conflict with the 900. The remote communicates with the controller to generate IR, so the controller would have to be in the kitchen to generate IR for the TV, It comes with a wired mini-blaster for the STB behind the wall. It is $130. Logitech just had a sale for $100.

It is rock solid control & awesome flexibility & functionality as long as the controller can "see" the TV. I believe I posted the link to my thread in an earlier post.

I see I did not post the link for the thread. Here it is - https://forums.att.com/t5/Using-your-U-verse-TV-Remote/Logitech-Harmony-Smart-Control-Remote/m-p/4033784#M2997

Thanks aviewer. Hopefully the battery life is sufficient. I saw earlier posts from you on testing differentt batteries. The kitchen remote is not used nearly as much as the LR or BR so hopefully won't be a problem.

Thank You.